White dot on terminals. Is this the positive or negative...?

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Originally Posted by atilsley

Thanks

Can you comment the quality/performance of the emilar?

Some articles I've read suggest they better'd jbl...?! Massive alnico magnet may help.

Kindly

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Sound good. Not like either Altec or JBL. Don't DARE say "better than JBL" if you post over al Lansing Heritage.:D The sun rises and sets JBL over there.

Better is subjective, same point as I was trying to make in another thread.

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Originally Posted by Old Guy

Sound good. Not like either Altec or JBL. Don't DARE say "better than JBL" if you post over al Lansing Heritage.:D The sun rises and sets JBL over there.

Better is subjective, same point as I was trying to make in another thread.

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Ha, yes...Note I didn't say better'd than Altec...!?!

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Originally Posted by Old Guy

Sound good. Not like either Altec or JBL. Don't DARE say "better than JBL" if you post over al Lansing Heritage.:D The sun rises and sets JBL over there.

Better is subjective, same point as I was trying to make in another thread.

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Makes me want to go over there and yell Klipsch are better than JBL's... then just kick back and watch the storm grow. :D

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Originally Posted by Old Guy

I beg to differ on the AA battery test, as I have done it thousands of times with no damage. I use to do Pro audio. Not a good idea on ribbons though.

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Thanks for the correction, OG.
How did you conduct this test on comp drivers? Is it an audible test "click" that you listen for, since you can't see the diaphragm?

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Originally Posted by Alien_Shore

How did you conduct this test on comp drivers? Is it an audible test "click" that you listen for, since you can't see the diaphragm?

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Actually with the back cover off you can. Test clicks are often a quick and dirty way to check continuity. An AA battery puts a miniscule amount of power to a driver. A 9v battery may not be wise.

As a follow up- most common colors are red or white for positive, black or green for negative.

FWIW, if the driver's on a horn I use 9V to 'pop' it and with a piece of TP 'flapper' taped to dangle over the horn mouth, whichever terminal moves it out with the [+] lead is positive. Otherwise, a 1.5 V with a 'flapper' taped over the driver 'mouth'.

GM

Good point GM. With the horn loading a 9v would be less of an issue. I always had AA's in my Maglite, so used them.

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Originally Posted by GM

FWIW, if the driver's on a horn I use 9V to 'pop' it and with a piece of TP 'flapper' taped to dangle over the horn mouth, whichever terminal moves it out with the [+] lead is positive. Otherwise, a 1.5 V with a 'flapper' taped over the driver 'mouth'.

GM

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Brilliant idea for testing the polarity of a hf-driver while still on the horn. Thanks for sharing it with.

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Originally Posted by Old Guy

With the horn loading a 9v would be less of an issue.

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Right, and a good way to check diaphragm condition because if it can't handle a ~5-10 W transient attack depending on its output impedance, its replacement time IME even if used in a HIFI/HT app.

GM

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Originally Posted by aditya

Brilliant idea for testing the polarity of a hf-driver while still on the horn. Thanks for sharing it with.

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You're welcome, but can't claim credit for it. I learned it from my childhood DIY audio mentor/next door neighbor who in turn had learned it while in the military and no doubt in my mind that it dates to the earliest days of electrically amplified sound reproduction and maybe even earlier in some other app such as for finding air leaks.

GM